Sunday, August 31, 2008

Know These Important Things Before You Learn How To Knit

Author: B Hopkins

Copyright 2006 B Hopkins

Did you ever enjoy texture of yarns in your hand or wondering how that interesting color pattern was created in your favorite sweater? Then you will surely have fun learning the art of knitting. Knitting is one of several ways to turn thread or yarn into cloth-weaving and crochet. It's all about creativity.

The Introductory Steps of Knitting

Unlike woven fabric, knitted fabric consists entirely of horizontal parallel courses of yarn. The courses are joined to each other by interlocking loops in which a short loop of one course of yarn is wrapped over the bight of another course. Knitting can be done either by hand, described below, or by machine. What makes knitting even more exciting is the fact that this art can be easily learned.

In practice, hand knitting is usually begun by forming a base series of twisted loops of yarn on a needle. This is called Cast On. A second knitting needle is then used to reach through each loop in succession in order to snag a bight of yarn and pull a length back through the loop. This forms a new stitch. Work can proceed in the round (circular knitting) or by going back and forth in rows. Knitting can also be done by machines, which use a different mechanical system to produce nearly identical results.

Knitting Styles: There are two basic styles of knitting; English and Continental. The difference between the two is in how you hold the yarn. In the English method the yarn is held in the right hand. In continental knitting, the yarn is held in the left hand. Whatever your natural hand-preference, you should be able to master either method because the nature of knitting is basically ambidextrous.

The two basic stitches are knit or plain and purl or wrong. These two nominal stitches are actually identical, however, being the obverse and reverse of the same stitch. It is the variations and combinations of these two stitches that create all the different stitch patterns which are possible in knitting. Typically, a knit stitch is formed by inserting the needle in the front of the loop from a left-to-right perspective and pulling a loop of yarn through to form a new loop, while a purl stitch is formed by inserting the needle in the front of the loop from a right-to-left perspective.

A piece of knitting begins with the process of casting on, which involves the initial creation of the stitches on the needle. Casting on is the first step in knitting These stitches become the first row of stitches and one selvage of your work, usually the bottom or hem.

Different methods of cast on are used for different effects; one may be stretchy enough for lace, while another provides a decorative edging. Provisional cast on is used when the knitting will continue in both directions from the cast on.

The body of a knitted piece may include plain stitches or a number of colors and textured patterns. The number of active stitches remains the same as when cast on unless stitches are added -an increase or removed- a decrease to shape the item.

Patterns to Knit (Way to Online Income): There are lots of people who sit at home and publish great knitting patters from home. Since over the years they have collected and modified many knitting patterns. They make a great income by selling/publishing the patterns on the net. Once you have enough practice, even you could make some online income.

Many patterns can be made by using knit and purl stitches in various combinations. If only knits or only purls are used when working back and forth in rows, the result is called garter stitch.

Alternating rows of knits and purls result in stockinette stitch, also known as stocking or jersey stitch, the stitch most often used in commercial garments such as T-shirts. Different combinations of stitches can be used to form ribbing, cables, or other textures.

Once the knitted piece is finished, the remaining live stitches are cast off. Casting or binding off loops the stitches across each other so they can be removed from the needle without unraveling the item. Although the mechanics are different from casting on, there are a similar variety of methods and choices to be made. Of the various methods the most versatile are the Plain Bind-off and the Suspended Bind-off.

Knitted garments are most commonly made in pieces, where individual sections of the garment are knit separately and then sewn together once all the pieces have been completed. Seamless knitting, where a whole garment is knit as a single piece is also possible. Smaller items, such as socks and hats are usually knit in one piece on double pointed needles.

Knitting can be easily learned these days as there are many websites on knitting and also various books for beginners available on the market, where you can find step by step instructions. These instructions are so easy to follow that even kids would not find them difficult at all. Show your creativity, grab your knitting tools and learn to knit today!

About the author: Do you want to learn how to knit? For more articles on knitting and crochet, go to the knittinginfosite.com. Find knitting and crochet articles, knitting resources and other items usefull for knitters. http://knittinginfosite.com (This article is a http://Drivetraffictomywebsite.com creation)

Saturday, August 30, 2008

History of embroidery

Author: Donna Somerkin

Embroidery is an age old art form that has decorated clothing, bedding, and household goods for hundreds of years. Using colored threads to create patterns has dated back to the time of ancient Egypt, when women sewed metallic threads into clothing for decoration. The trend caught on with Babylonians, Phoenicians, and Hebrews, who all began incorporating embroidered pieces into their clothing.

The oldest embroidered piece in existence is the world famous Bayeux Tapestry, dating from approximately 1066. Although the piece is called a tapestry, it is actually as embroidered composition reaching an astounding 231 feet long. Recalling the Battle of Hastings, the piece still hangs in the town of Bayeux in the province of Normandy in France. This beautiful embroidered piece is though to have been created by over 100 noble women in the town and is speculated to take several years to complete.

European embroidery changed a great deal over the years, but became a highlight of fashion during the 18th Century in France. These elaborate embroidery designs--often made with metallic and silk threads--decorated everything from women's dresses to men's breeches. This style soon caught on in popularity with the rest of the continent and soon men, women, and children were wearing heavily embroidered fashion. The decoration also served as a symbol of status and wealth in addition to simply adding glitz and glamour to the garments.

Embroidery continued in popularity and soon became a right of passage for girls to be taught by their mothers the time tested stitches and often completed a lovely sampler to showcase the different stitches and techniques. These samplers were passed down for generations and have been sold at auction for phenomenal amounts. Another popular use of embroidery was to dress up homely clothing. Often, homespun cloth or poor quality purchased cloth was the most a family could afford to outfit the members, so the matron of the house embroidered the clothing to make the outfits look fancier.

The end of the 19th Century saw founding of embroidery shops where scores of women completed the delicate stitches by hand. The year 1880 saw the advent of the first embroidery machine, which further mechanized the embroidery shops and produced even more products. Switzerland soon became the forerunner in embroidery designs and technology, with the United States in second, as shops popped up in New York City and Chicago.

Although the times have changed, the embroidery stitches and techniques have remained the same. Technology has greatly advanced and left the 1880s embroidery machine in the dust. Today's machines can replicate thousands of pattern by just a simple push of a button.

About the author: Donna Somerkin specializes in Embroidery Machines http://www.embroidery-machines-1.com

Friday, August 29, 2008

Georgeous Knit Scarves

Author: Mary Bailis

With cold weather upon us, it's time to update your wardrobe with a new gorgeous knit scarf. They are a hot item for the season and what a great looking accessory item to keep you warm. Look for them in so many different yarns, colors and styles. This is the year for the knit scarves so put away the old plain Jane's back in storage. The question is, do you buy one or make your own.

Personally, I like the hand made one's made by yours truly, myself. I enjoy having that one of a kind accessory item that looks great. With the huge selection of beautiful yarns out there I just had to pick up my knitting needles and dust them off. They've been non-stop ever since. You can find yarn at all the local craft store's; AC Moore, Jo-Anne Fabrics, Michael's to name a few as well as their websites. Some of them will offer classes, or will have representative's near the yarn aisle to help you get started and answer any questions. All the top yarn companies have very informative website's to help you get started also. They have an amazing selection of free, yes free patterns that you can print off and use at your disposal. Lion Brand, http://www.lionbrand.com even has a how to section. I forgot how to ""cast off"" and it has step by step instructions that set me on my way. All the patterns have very clear instructions on how to knit or crochet and what supplies to purchase. I have made several myself and found them all very easy to follow. They even have the famous Martha Stewart Poncho pattern available online. I wanted one and don't crochet so I forwarded the pattern to my mother. She so graciously made some for me. I get endless compliments whenever I wear it. I have now ventured off making my own patterns. What can I say, I've got the knitting bug or should I say yarn bug! It's the yarns that pull you in to buying so much. There really is an amazing selection out there. You can find; cashmere, wool, fun fur, metallics, sequence, curly, fuzzy, you name it they have it. So pick up those knitting needles and get making those scarves. You'll get the bug too and will end up making them for everyone you know!

For those of you who have no interest in making a scarf or just don't have the knack for it, there is still hope. Many stores offer a decent selection of knit scarves but you will find a limited selection in the yarn styles. I recommend attending one of the many craft fairs being offered in your area. To look for top quality vendors, look for the juried shows or ones that are very selective in choosing their vendors. You will definitely get a higher quality of vendors and therefore a higher quality of products. There are some very artistic and talented knitters out there selling their wares. Artistic people not only like to make great products but really like selling them to others to enjoy. I get excited when someone buy's one of my scarves and can't wait to wear it. They always come back for more to buy as gifts to share their great find. Another place to shop for knit scarves is at your local art galleries. They consign artist work and stock plenty of gift items as well as artwork. They will have a high quality of vendors. But do hurry, the stores currently are clearing out their winter merchandise for Spring clothing.

Get a gorgeous knit scarf while you can or get those knitting needles going and enjoy getting the knitting but!

About the author: Mary Bailis is a designer and owner of http://www.AlexiHandbags.com an online custom handbag and scarf boutique. Her designs were originally shown in exclusive art shows and trunk shows. Customer demand brought forth the website. She enjoys reading, being creative, exercising, nature and spending as much time with her three beautiful children.

Thursday, August 28, 2008

How To Learn About Needlepoint On The Web In 2 Easy Steps

Author: Roger Wembley

This may come as a surprise to you, but there are people other than your grandmother who enjoy needlepoint as a hobby. Needlepoint has been around since the beginning of time but that doesn't mean that you can't become an expert at it. In fact, we're pretty sure that if you focus enough of your energy at a certain hobby you can become an expert in just about anything. You can find just about anything you want on the internet. In fact, if you think it might be an exciting hobby, chances are someone has thought that before you did. Let's take a look at needlepoint and how to get acquainted with the hobby.

1) Use the major search engines to search for these phrases: ""needlepoint beginner,"" o ""needlepoint tutorial,"" or ""how to learn needlepoint."" Be sure and use quotes for the last phrase- it makes all the difference in finding that exact phrase. There are people starting new hobbies all the time and you aren't going to be the only one interested in needlepoint. In fact, a quick search for just the term ""needlepoint"" returns more than 2.6 Million results in Google. If term needlepoint has been written at least 2.6million times on the web, you can be sure that there are others that have written a basic tutorial in getting started on the hobby.

2) Use DMOZ. Here is a trick that not everyone is going to tell you because they just don't know about it (and that I've taken from another hobby). Visit Dmoz.org. Dmoz is an Open Directory edited by humans. If a site has been included in Dmoz, that means that a human has reviewed the site and decided that it is good enough to be included in the Dmoz directory. Usually, only real quality sites are added to the Dmoz directory as all the editors work for free and pride themselves on only including the best sites on the web.

We've notice that when we are looking for something (in this case, needlepoint), nothing beat dmoz.org as a great place to start. Start your quest at dmoz, then visit our site to learn all about needlepoint in easy step by step tutorials.

About the author: Roger Wembley is author of ""Learn Needlepoint."" Grab your copy at http://www.needlepointastic.com

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

History of Needlepoint

Author: Jo kefford

There are conflicting opinions as to the terms describing needlepoint. The differences may result from the fact that needlepoint has come down to us from various countries and in various stitches. Briefly, needlepoint is embroidery on canvas, the most common stitch is half of a cross-stitch, which is also called 'Tent stitch'.

Needlepoint-tapestry is an often-used expression which shows the relation of needlepoint to the tapestry designs of the middle ages. This is especially true when the needlepoint is worked in an upright Gobelin stitch, which gives the effect of woven tapestry.

This early work was done on a loosely-woven material like coarse linen. Later, canvases were made specifically for the purpose; both in single thread canvas, or with threads arranged in pairs to make 'double thread canvas'. This was often worked in needlepoint combining the fine petit point stitch, used for detailed shading, with gros point used for large flat design areas. To make this combination, the double thread canvas was 'split' - that is, the meshes opened with a needle or pin to form a single thread canvas for working in petit point.

As with all forms of embroidery it is very difficult to give exact dates, and even places where the technique originated. Canvas work dates back to the sixteenth century, but reached its peak during the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries. Needlepoint was extremely popular in Colonial America where it was used for pictures, as an upholstery fabric, and for fashion accessories.

During the Victorian era, Berlin work came into popularity. It is often characterized by brilliant worsteds and combinations of geometric and floral designs. The majority of designs were developed as hand-painted patterns on squared paper, especially made for copying in needlepoint or cross-stitch on canvas. The best of these designs came from Berlin, hence the name.

It then became popular again in the late twenties, and continues to increase in popularity with a renewed interest in handicrafts. Designs and ready-to-sew packs are available in many speciality shops all over the country.

About the author: Jo Kefford has been creating needlework for many years, and loves to encourage others to renew their creative flair. For more top tapestry and canvas work tips, visit http://www.toptapestry.com . All the sources of inspiration you need to complete your very own masterpiece.

Monday, August 25, 2008

How to Learn About Needlepoint On The Web in 2 Easy Steps

Author: Roger Wembley

This may come as a surprise to you, but there are people other than your grandmother who enjoy needlepoint as a hobby. Needlepoint has been around since the beginning of time but that doesn't mean that you can't become an expert at it. In fact, we're pretty sure that if you focus enough of your energy at a certain hobby you can become an expert in just about anything. You can find just about anything you want on the internet. In fact, if you think it might be an exciting hobby, chances are someone has thought that before you did. Let's take a look at needlepoint and how to get acquainted with the hobby.

1)Use the major search engines to search for these phrases: ""needlepoint beginner,"" o ""needlepoint tutorial,"" or ""how to learn needlepoint."" Be sure and use quotes for the last phrase- it makes all the difference in finding that exact phrase. There are people starting new hobbies all the time and you aren't going to be the only one interested in needlepoint. In fact, a quick search for just the term ""needlepoint"" returns more than 2.6 Million results in Google. If term needlepoint has been written at least 2.6million times on the web, you can be sure that there are others that have written a basic tutorial in getting started on the hobby.

2)Use DMOZ. Here is a trick that not everyone is going to tell you because they just don't know about it (and that I've taken from another hobby). Visit Dmoz.org. Dmoz is an Open Directory edited by humans. If a site has been included in Dmoz, that means that a human has reviewed the site and decided that it is good enough to be included in the Dmoz directory. Usually, only real quality sites are added to the Dmoz directory as all the editors work for free and pride themselves on only including the best sites on the web. We've notice that when we are looking for something (in this case, needlepoint), nothing beat dmoz.org as a great place to start. Start your quest at dmoz, then visit our site to learn all about needlepoint in easy step by step tutorials.

About the author: Roger Wembley is author of ""Learn Needlepoint ."" Grab your copy at http://www.needlepointastic.com

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Leather Craft Classes

Author: Jake Berlin

If you are interested in learning how to make undeniably great leather products, you can enjoy classes to make anything from shoes to handbags to gun straps, and much, much more! You can find more opportunities on the Internet but I have put together a list of some organizations that offer leather-making classes that I would highly recommend:

YWCA / YMCA

ywca.com or ymca.com Most people think of these notational oganizations as being places to learn how to swim or where they can enjoy a good aerobics class. While both the YMCA and YWCA do offer these types of activities, they offer incredible classes that include leather making.

All you need to do is visit the website listed to find an organization where you live. Some of the classes offered include design and making of leather shoes, belts, handbags, hats, wallets, and more. The prices may vary but on average, you can expect to pay around $150 to $250 for a four- to six-week class.

jmwillowwinds.com/classes/classes.html

This company offers classes for many different types of leather making, which includes an excellent opportunity on how to make shoes and handbags from a skilled leather maker. In these classes, you will learn to design and construct shoes such as pumps, sandals, oxfords, and loafers. They also offer both a beginner and intermediate class. The classes run around $300 for 10 sessions.

heritan.com

If you live in Michigan and are interested in tanning, this is the place to take classes. The instructor is highly skilled and has many of his pieces seen on the big screen in movies such as Legend of the Falls and Thunderheart. You will learn the art of tanning hide using the traditional method of brain tanning and will have an awesome finished skin to take home.

One of the most popular classes is the ""Brain-Tanned Buffalo Robe"" class. If you are serious about tanning, you can tan a buffalo and make a wonderful finished product such as a bedroll.

tandyleather.com

With operations in Canada and Texas, Tandy Leather has been in business since 1991. At this company, you can buy leather wholesale and receive a guarantee on all your purchases. In addition to selling, they also offer classes in leather making.

advleather.com

They offer basic and advanced courses in the repair and restoration of leather furniture, automotive leathers, and other leather-uphostered items.

*** Hey! Want To Make Something Out Of Leather? *** Discover How To Make Leather Crafts for Fun and Profit Click Here ==> Leather Craft

About the author: Jake's love of leather and the constant questions drove him to write everything down.

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Scrapbooking: Fastest Growing Craft Activity

Author: Adam Daniels

According to several recent polls conducted by industry leaders, scrapbooking is one of the fastest growing craft activities.

The latest demographics show the following trends:

- 98% of scrapbookers are females between 30 and 59 years old. Among the age groups who responded to the surveys, scrapbooking, rubber-stamping and paper crafting attract the various generations fairly equally.

- 85% of the respondents are married, and only about 14% do not have children.

- 95% have at least ""some college"" or attended a trade school.

- 65% of the respondents have college or post-graduate degrees.

- 53% are working full time (40+ hours per week). Another 38% work part time (between 20 -39 hours per week). About 12% of the respondents are retired.

- 85% have incomes over $50,000, and 62% said their annual incomes are over $75,000.

- An interesting fact is that the majority of the respondents (96%) reported that they had been scrapbooking for more than a year. Of those, nearly one quarter had been scrapbooking for at least three years and nearly one third for at least five years.

- On average, 75% of the respondents reported that they had spent more than $500 over the past 12 months on scrapbooking supplies, and 42% reported spending more than $1000.

Interestingly, 74% of the respondents also are involved in rubber-stamping, 46% enjoy paper crafts and 27% say they are involved in Painting/decorative painting. All three of these crafts can, and are used to enhance many scrapbooking projects. Other crafts that scrapbookers are involved with include: Seasonal Crafts (41%), General Crafts (34%), Sewing (fashion/home decorating), Needlework (26%), Quilting (20%), Knitting/Crocheting (17%) and Jewelry Making (10%).

According to the Hobby Industry Association, retail sales for the scrapbooking industry climbed from $400 million in 1997 to $2.5 billion in 2003. Although the industry is still growing, it's becoming more difficult for independent dealers to make a profit, and oftentimes, any profits made by the smaller ""mom and pop"" stores must be put back into the business. As the industry has flourished, competition from large corporations has increased.

One of the biggest competitors in the industry is the craft store giant Michael's, operating about 867 stores in 48 states and Canada. Consumers feel that Michael's has a great inventory of supplies which are easy to find and fun for the whole family to use.

Successful independent scrapbooking retailers insist that it's possible to compete with the giants by being smart and planning for success. They recommend:

- Offer specialized services.

- Don't put all your eggs in one basket - offer a variety of services and products.

- Become the best at what you do.

In addition to a retail store, craft business owners should build a strong Web presence. The business model should include workshops, craft nights and scrapbooking parties. Look for markets in your area that have not been tapped, such as specific minority groups or new scrapbookers.

Industry insiders insist that the scrapbooking market is still growing and that there is room for anyone who is interested in starting a career. The best advice before starting any business is to conduct careful research and do the necessary preplanning. That way you will know what you are getting into before you start.

About the author: Adam Daniels offers a Free Video on Scrapbooking. You can view it at http://www.ScrapBookProfit. com

Friday, August 22, 2008

Hanging On By Teddy's Thread

Author: Marvic

Victoria Koning from Marvic Tours and Tales was deeply saddened after reading a news article, dated the 16th June 2005, which stated that 50 children get raped every day in South Africa. She found the words almost incomprehensible ... and quite devestating. But a small glimmer of hope was found when she learned about the Mother Bear Project (http://www.motherbearproject.org).

Amy Berman founded the Mother Bear Project, which requests that volunteers knit a teddy bear based on her mother's World War II pattern. The teddy bear then gets a little face and red felt heart sewn on to it and is shipped off to a little child in South Africa, and other countries.

Berman had read a similar article about these children getting raped, ""I could not just close the magazine and continue with my everyday life knowing there were children in such pain,"" said Berman. ""I knew I could not solve the 'big problem' from here, but I thought maybe I could bring awareness of this problem and provide comfort to the young victims in the form of a teddy,"" she said. "I believe every bear has a story, and we only hear a few of the thousands.

"In Zambia, a little 7-year old girl who had AIDS was being stigmatised by her peers because it was known she had the disease. She stopped going to school and before she died she asked that she be buried with her bear because it was her only friend."

"One 8-year old boy in South Africa who was living in a child-headed household, had to evacuate his home with his siblings a few months ago during torrential rains because his home was falling apart. He told his sister that he had to go and get his bear. His teen sister told him not to go because he would be risking his life. He said he had to because the bear had a heart on it and that meant someone loved him. He did get his bear before his home was totally destroyed."

Koning contacted Berman to express her heart-felt thanks and appreciation of what was being done, and asked how they [Marvic] could be of help. Berman replied, "I am always touched by hearing from others who find out about this project and want to help. It is incredible how the Internet can bring people together." Berman continued, "I have now sent over 6,300 bears from knitters all over the U.S. and the world. These knitters have ranged in age from 8 - 97 years old, and they come from all faiths and backgrounds. Each person has their own reason for knitting a bear, and I feel like it is my primary duty to make sure these bears are given out unconditionally as they were intended."

In response to how Marvic and others can help, Berman replied, "People can send for a pattern and knit bears...I ask $3 and a self-addressed envelope (stamped if in the U.S.) be sent to: Mother Bear Project, P.O. Box 62188, Minneapolis, MN 55426, U.S.A. This $3 helps to pay to ship the bears and pay duty fees on the receiving end. I send each knitter a pattern and a tag. If the knitters make more than 1 bear, I ask that they send $3 for the extra bears. There are many knitters who cannot afford to pay for their bears and I will always accept the bears without money. I always need donations for shipping the bears and for all the expenses such as the P.O. Box, shipping supplies, trademark fees, printing expenses (brochures, etc) and all the costs of the things it takes to keep this project going strong. I pay the duty fees on the receiving end because I believe the people giving out the bears should not be financially burdened. I do not use the money for anything except the project expenses. I work full time in addition to running this project. All donations are tax deductible."

Marvic aims to help increase awareness of this worthy project and the full article can be read at http://www.marvic.biz/tales/newroom/NL0506ART02.htm.

About the author: Marvic Tours and Tales promotes authentic eco-cultural safari adventures in South Africa and offers free online infotainment at http://www.marvic.biz.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

The truth about thread counts!

Author: Patricia Bowlin

A generation ago, no home maker worried about thread counts!

Thread counts have become one of the deciding factors for many people when they're buying bed linens today though. The truth about thread counts may seem a bit difficult to understand. It doesn't have to! More than just the thread count affects how bedding feels and how comfortable you will be when sleeping with it on your bed. Let's check into this alittle bit. Then you can make informed decisions about your bedding when you're ready to purchase again.

Our grandparents and parents slept on lower thread count cotton sheets and did just fine, right? These sheets were serviceable, but could feel abit thin and unsubstantial by our standards these days.

Today, bed linens can be found from a lowly 120 thread count up to as high as 1200. Who knows, maybe even higher soon!

Is all this talk about thread counts much ado about nothing? Well, the answer is yes and no. Thread count alone will not tell you how bedding will feel to the touch or how well it will hold up over long years of use.

The feel of bedding, what the sheets feel like on your skin, is known as ""hand"" or ""handle"". The hand of the bedding does have something to do with thread count, but that's not the only factor. The way the bedding is woven and the content of the fabric have a lot to do with the hand of the bedding. The character, or individuality of a material includes how the fabric drapes, the elasticity, softness and fineness of how that particular sheet feels.

The ply is a factor that defines the number of single yards which are twisted to become the ply yard from which the bedding is woven. By twisting these single yards together to form the ply yard, the fabric is more resilient and long lasting. The ply yarns are twisted together to form cord- and the cord is the actual material used in the weaving process.

Finish is another characteristic of bedding which affects how it will feel to the skin. Percale is a plain weave of cotton or polyester/cotton blended yarns. This finish usually uses a higher thread count and a finer yarn. Sateen is another finish for cotton fabric that is woven in such as way that the surface is smooth and lustrous, reminding us of satin. Flannel is a brushed fiber finish which is quite warm, soft and cuddly- it can be created from 100% cotton fibers or a polyester/cotton blend.

Now that we know a bit about what makes one sheet different from another sheet, let's get the facts go back to the facts about thread count. The actual definition of thread count is the number of threads per square inch of fabric going horizontal and vertical. Generally speaking, the higher thread count materials will have softer textures- or hands. However, the bedding has to be viewed from an overall standpoint and take into account the fabric composition and the finish to determine how soft a sheet will actually be.

The most favored thread counts in bed linens today are in the 200 to 600 range. The best combination of softness and durability are found in this range.

However, a 200 thread count cotton sheet woven with a sateen finish can be softer and more luxurious feeling than a 400 or 600 count sheet of standard cotton in a plain weave. Egyptian cotton, which has a longer fiber than other cottons, when woven into a 200 thread count sateen finish sheet may feel more luxurious and softer than either of the other choices.

Single ply sheets of top quality cotton may feel more luxurious than double ply sheets. The only real means of rating how a sheet will feel to you is to touch it.

Look for what features are most important to you when selecting your next set of bed linens.

If you want few or no wrinkles, choose a polyester/cotton blend. Less crisp, less cool than cotton.

If you like the feel of satin or silk, but don't like sliding off the bed, choose a 100% cotton sateen weave. =) If you like the extra warm feel of flannel, select brushed cotton or flannel finish- but be aware that this weave often pills quickly after only a few washings. (Look for the highest ounce weight fabric you can find to minimize this). Percale often softens more and more as it is washed again and again. Simple, elegant, cool. Egyptian cotton is King, with the longest cotton fibers available to date. Supima cotton is also excellent, with a tiny bit shorter fiber length. Either of them becomes softer and even more sumptuous with each washing! You can't go wrong no matter what with either.

It's important to choose bed linens that you find feel good to you rather than select based on some designer theory of thread count. So, don't be taken in by a high price tag. Just because a sheet costs a lot doesn't necessarily mean it will feel any better than a less expensive sheet.

Patricia Bowlin informs and entertains you as you shop for your home bedding! Find out everything you need to know about chosing the perfect pillows, bed linens, blankets, comforters, and other

bedding here now.

About the author: Patricia Bowlin is an entrepenuer, writer and researcher who loves to share her tips, sense of humor, advice and ideas on creating the perfect bedroom sanctuary. Get hundreds of useful tips, advice and ideas now by visiting http://www.best-in-bedding.com

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

7 Magic Trick Tips using Invisible Thread

Author: Dion Semeniuk

SEVEN MAGIC TRICK TIPS USING INVISIBLE THREAD

Have you ever been to a magic show, sitting there mesmerized as you asked yourself, "How did they do that?" As you know, magic is more an illusion, creating the vision that something is happening although it is not. While magicians use many different tools of the trade, one of the most popular is the invisible thread. Trying to get magicians to divulge their secrets associated with the invisible thread is near impossible. However, we do want to provide you with some highlights and tips about the top seven magic trick tips performed using invisible thread.

What is "Invisible Thread"?

The first of the seven magic trick tips using invisible thread is to understand what it is. This type of thread is actually a very fine stand of nylon used primarily for getting small objects to levitate. For years, magicians worked with invisible thread and their hands only, meaning they had to be very precise in their movements for the magic tricks to appear flawless. Today, magicians can use an invisible thread reel, which not only dispenses the thread but it is also designed to retract it. Because of this, the magician is able to maintain a constant tension on the line so there are no mishaps in the performance.

Invisible Thread Reel Size

The second tip when using a thread reel is to use the appropriate size. Since different objects need different types of control, thread reels are made in a number of different sizes. Typically, the longer the tube the more distance you will get from the reel while the more tension the less distance. For magicians, the idea is to use the smaller size invisible thread reels for close-up work opposed to a larger reel for distance. As far as size, a stage reel is capable of extending 35 feet, which means a magician could easily perform a "floating bill" trick in the center of a room with no nearby walls. However, if you want to really impress a crowd, you could perform the same floating bill trick outdoors simply by anchoring the reel to the ground. With this, it would appear the trick was impossible and the crown cheers.

What about Tension?

Third on the list of seven trick tips using invisible thread is using the right tension. As you pull the invisible thread out of the reel, there will be an increase in tension. What happens at some point is that the pull will become too much for the thread, causing it to break. If you want to put more tension on the thread reel, wind more of the invisible thread into a wax ball. What you do not want to do is add additional winds on the elastic, which would only make it cumbersome.

Floating Objects

Next on the list is insight into working with floating objects. When using invisible thread for a magic trick, keep in mind that you want something that is light enough not to sag by putting too much weight on the thread. The key is to choose objects that you can easily move and maintain in a position in space, which is why the floating bill is such a popular choice. Other choices to use an invisible thread magic trick include ring fingers, an empty soda can, etc. The greatest benefit of using a thread reel is that when you walk away from your floating object, you are actually transferring energy to the reel, which can then be used to make the bill float from the floor to your hand – magically.

Those Darn Lights

Next, to use invisible thread, you have to know how to use correct lighting. If you are a magician or just practicing to be one and you want to perform tricks with the invisible thread, remember that lighting is crucial. The two main factors to consider when using the thread reel are light source and clothing. Typically, the best conditions for a magic trick with invisible thread are cloudy days and the worst, direct lighting that comes from behind you. With this, the light will only reflect off the thread, thus being seen by the audience. For clothing, anything dark will serve as a backdrop for the thread, thus making it easier to see. For this reason, you should go with lighter, non-reflective type clothing. Magic is always fun and with some practice, you will soon learn a number of magic tricks with invisible thread, perfect for entertaining family and friends.

Methodology

The sixth of the seven magic trick tips using invisible thread has to do with methods of performing the tricks, such as the Hoop Pass. This is actually considered one of the greatest tricks you can do with the invisible thread reel, which involves passing a solid hoop over a bill. The key is to use a ring with a relatively thick stock, which will put less strain on the thread as it goes over the metal hoop. Lay the hoop on the thread so it is between you and the floating bill. Then, with your hand, scoop the ring through so the thread is now on the back of the left hand. Next, use the right hand to pass the hoop over the bill. To complete the trick, all you do is let the thread slide off from the back of your hand. Remember, this is just one of many methods used with the invisible thread, so have fun practicing them all.

Finishing the Show

The final tip is that whatever trick being performed using invisible thread and/or a reel, it should never kill the effect. In other words, you want to keep your audience wanting more. If you carry a trick on too far, you will lose the interest of the audience so it would be far better to keep the tricks short and sweet. In addition, put some meaning and emphasis in your performances to leave your audience with a memory of your magic ability. We recommend you use the invisible thread late in your show, which will end the performance on a fun note.

About the author: Dion Semeniuk is the owner of the popular online magic shop, This is Magic, which specialize in Invisible Thread Magic. To receive 4 free magic tricks and learn more about the ITR, visit http://www.thisismagic.com

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

How to run a quilt swap

Author: Michelle Steel

Lots of quilters enjoy participating in a swap. The main aim of a swap is to get more of the particular object that you are swapping. Considering we are talking to quilters here, the things that they like to swap include, charm squares, completed blocks or pieces of fabric. To organise a swap you'll need participants firstly. These are easily recruited through your own quilt groups. You must have a theme to the swap that entices more people to join. Keep the rules simple so that people understand what they are doing. Rules for swaps include the size, shape, design or colour of the fabric/block to be swapped. For instance, you could organise a swap of blue and white, 6.5"" nine patches. You find out how many people are interested in participating, and that's how many blocks each person makes. One for themselves, and one for everyone else. Set a deadline for the swap to be finished and that's about it. Other things to consider are these. Is this a centralised swap or not? A centralised swap is where the swap hostess collects all of the items on the due date, swaps them all about, and redistributes them to the participants so each person has one of everything. The hostess needs to be organised and not mind spending a lot of time sorting it out. A non-centralised swap is where each individual sends/gives each other person involved in the swap their own item. If you are posting, this can become costly. If there is a person who drops out and doesn't contribute, then you don't always get the same amount back that you sent. Are you swapping blocks? Give a good description of the block that everyone is making. Include instructions. Make sure that it is within every ones sewing ability. Be very clear on the colours to use, if this is important. Be clear on what the finished measurements of the block should be. Be prepared to accept blocks that might not be sewn well, remember that there are all levels of ability out there, and we should encourage more quilters to join these activities. Variations on a block swap. Have the same block every month but change the colour scheme. Change the fabric every month to relate to a social calendar ie, Christmas fabric for December, hearts for February. Give each person the choice of block that they would like, and give them their blocks on their birthday. Choose a theme for the blocks such as hearts, stars etc. Are you swapping fabrics? Decide on what size the fabric should be. Fat quarters are nice, but you may want to take into account peoples finances. Choose a colour scheme for the swap. Often it's hard to find a particular colour, so if everyone in the swap provides 8 FQ's of one yellow fabric, and there are 8 people in the swap, everyone should end up with 8 different yellow fabrics. An excellent way to increase those bare spots in the stash. Rules for this sort of swap need to specify quality of fabric, to pre-wash or not, and believe it or not, some people are allergic to cat hair and cigarette smoke and we all know that these permeate the fabrics. Are you swapping Charm Squares? This is a great way to get lots of fabrics for those quilts that just need scraps. Decide how many different fabrics should be in each pack. Then you provide one pack for each participant. If there are twenty 10"" squares per pack, and 10 people in the swap, each person will end up with 200 different fabrics. Excellent. Rules for this swap are similar to fabric swaps. You'll need to be exact with the cutting measurements, just in case people want to sew the squares together as is. A good way to use up the fabrics in your stash that you may not wish to keep anymore. Other things that you can swap include buttons, signature squares, or hand made items such as pincushions, Christmas ornaments and place mats. The variations on a swap are endless. Just be prepared to join in, accept what you receive in the spirit it is sent and you'll have loads of fun, and make new friends too.

About the author: Manager - Patchwork Interactive www.patchworkinteractive.com.au

Monday, August 18, 2008

Choosing Embroidery Thread

Author: George Royal

Selecting the right type of threads for any embroidery work is important because the color and texture of the design, and eventually the look of the final product depend on the material and type of thread used. There's a wide variety of embroidery thread to choose from, so take your time to decide what type or combination should be best for the design you have in mind. More importantly, thread selections should be based on Sewability, Seam Performance and Appearance, Availability and Cost.

Types:

1. Rayon: This type of thread has a great sheen, and so the best looking embroidery designs are stitched with it. Rayon threads can range from combinations of two or more colors twisted together thereby forming a single strand, to one solid color strand. They are widely available, mostly in standard 40 wt. and 30 wt. Even though Rayon is the most popular type, it's not very sturdy because of its thinness.

2. Polyester: Polyester thread is more durable than Rayon but it is not as attractive. However, this type of embroidery thread hardly shrinks or fades, and if combined with Rayon, the effect they provide is nearly indistinguishable. It is also cheaper than Rayon thread.

3. Cotton: Cotton thread allows for a wide range of tension adjustments because of its texture. It has a nice sheen, is quite sturdy (though finer threads above 50 wt. are not), and typically used for machine embroidery.

4. Silk: Silk embroidery thread hardly breaks and has its own unique, and probably the best sheen. Threads come in various sizes but their availability is low so they are mostly used for luxury fabrics.

5. Metallic Thread: This type of thread has a core wrapped with a metal foil which may be coated with silver alloy, and color is added to this foil with a polyester film which may also be applied as an undercoating. Metallic thread is one of the most durable available on the market.

6. Mylar Thread: Plies of film are combined into a layer, cut into slices to create Mylar threads. They are durable but may break under high-speed sewing. One unique color feature is holographic hue, which picks up and reflects light or color from other surrounding objects. This really enhances the color and design of the embroidery.

7. Special-effect: Like the name suggests, this type of thread can be used to create different design effects, such as crewel-like effect. Some of the special effect threads change colors under sunlight, or may glow in the dark.

Quality Evaluation:

1. Tensile Strength: The tensile strength of an embroidery thread can be tested by sawing a suspended strand with another strand back and forth until the first strand breaks. The faster it breaks, the lower the strength and quality of that particular thread type.

2. Elongation: A good thread must have the right amount of stretch. Take a piece of the thread and stretch it till it breaks. The strand should neither break too quickly nor stretch for too long.

3. Sheen: The luster and quality of the sheen can be tested by studying the color and design of a finished embroidery product.

About the author: Embroidery HQ offers articles, tips and tricks about embroidery.

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Thread

Author: Saurya Ghosal

The most common size of thread is size 10. The higher the number the thinner the thread. Thinner sizes go down to 100. Thread is generally available down to size 30 or 40.

Some thread crochet items need to be a particular size, and therefore you need to use the size of thread recommended in the pattern. Other items such as edgings can be made in the size of thread you prefer.

It can take a while to get used to using finer thread. One way is to gradually work downward, rather than switching between a fine thread project and a heavier size. The size of thread you're currently working with comes to feel normal to you.

You may have to look around to find good quality thread, but it's worth spending a little extra money on. There are a number of differences between types of threads.

Luster means a shimmery, satiny shine. Mercerization is a chemical process done to thread, which chemically burns the fuzz off and hopefully makes it shimmer. Almost all crochet thread is mercerized.

Fuzzy thread can feel soft, but fuzz works against luster, so things made from fuzzy thread won't have a satiny shine when completed. The major problem with fuzzy thread is that it makes your finished work more likely to attract and hold dust, pet hair, and other fluff. Items made from fuzzy thread tend to get fuzzier with even gentle washing.

Better quality thread has more twist. A thread with insufficient twist can cause you to split stitches and it can separate in your finished work giving a stringy look. Thread without enough twist gets increasingly fuzzy as you stitch. Thread with a good twist stays smooth and even and retains its luster.

There are two reasons for thread to feel stiff. Some have some a sort of starch or sizing on them. Others have such an intense twist. Tightly twisted thread bends well but starchy threads bend awkwardly, making stitches look uneven. Starchy thread can also leave a residue on your hands. Some crocheters like this kind of pre-starched thread, because it saves having to starch work afterwards.

Six-cord cotton comes apart into three plies, each made up of two smaller plies twisted together in the opposite direction. They are smooth, dense, and shiny and not fuzzy. Perle cotton is meant for embroidery, but can be used for crochet. However, you should only use it only for items that don't get much wear. As it has a gentle twist, it doesn't wear well.

About the author: Saurya Ghosal for http://www.learncrochet.org Read more about Crochet http://www.learncrochet.org/Where-to-buy-crochet-supplies.html Copyright 2005 http://www.learncrochet.org

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Organizing a Sewing Room

Author: Kathleen Elias

5 Solutions for Organizing a Sewing Room - Spend less time searching for supplies and more time sewing!

Whether sewing is a relaxing hobby or an income-generating profession, you can make organizing a sewing room into a fun and productive project. If you are lucky enough to have a room just for sewing, then you will have more flexibility in your organizing design, but if you need to share this room with a home office or guest bedroom, then you will need to keep some considerations in mind while organizing a sewing room.

Before you begin organizing, make a thorough inventory list of all the items you need in your sewing room, such as: •Sewing machine •Sewing table •Fabric •Cutting board •Patterns •Threads •Mirror •Notions: thimbles, threaders, rulers, tracing tools, needles, pins, cushions, bobbins, elastic, seam rippers, pins, ribbon, dyes, fabric care, etc. •Iron and ironing board •Garment steamer •Dressforms •Other

Next, designate areas within your sewing room. I have simplified the process for you by dividing your room into five separate areas below.

5 Easy Ways for Organizing a Sewing Room:

1.Create a Sewing Table Area – This should include the sewing table or desk, sewing machine, and a small basket or organizer for your daily sewing needs. This should also include enough open space for you to keep the material and supplies of your current project within easy reach.

Your sewing table is best placed by a window to maximize natural lighting. If that is not possible, use halogen bulbs. There are a variety of desktop and floor lights available, some are even equipped with a magnifier.

For floor covering, the flatness of a tile or linoleum is usually preferred over soft carpet to keep the machine in balance.

2.Create a Fabric Storage Area – As a sewer, you probably have quite a vast collection of beautiful fabrics. Help these fabrics maintain their beauty and structure by storing them safely.

There are different ways to categorize your fabric:

•By Color: whites, blues, tans, reds, greens, etc. •By Style: plaid, stripe, toile, polka dots, floral, contemporary graphics, holiday, etc. •By Texture: cotton, rayon, denim, velvet, silk, canvas, leather, etc. •By Purpose: clothing, home furnishing, crafts, etc.

Safely store your fabrics by: •Folding neatly and place in plastic containers. Label the outside by cutting small swatches of each fabric. •Hanging fabric in a closet with a skirt or pant hanger. Multi-tiered hangers with clips can save space and help prevent wrinkles. •Placing smaller amounts of fabric in large Ziploc bags. However you decide to store the fabric, just make sure it is in a temperature-controlled environment to protect the fibers.

3.Create a Pattern Storage Area – Rather than keeping patterns scattered all over the place, keep them neat and tidy in a designated area. Lining up your patterns in drawers work especially well, either dresser drawers or durable cardboard or plastic drawers. You could also keep your patterns tucked inside a sturdy photo box, plastic container, pretty rectangular baskets, etc. Label the drawers or boxes based on one of the categories below.

•Style: shirts, slacks, skirts, dresses, etc. •Size: infant, children's, teens, adults •Gender: male, female •Brand: Butterick, McCall's, Vogue, etc.

Pick one system and stick with it.

4.Create a Sewing Supplies Area – Are your sewing supplies scattered all over the place? The exercise of organizing a sewing room would be incomplete without finding a home for all your little tools. Depending on what your current inventory is, you may find the following items useful:

•Sewing caddies – many of these include lots of dividers and pull out drawers as well as handles for easy transportation. •Thread boxes – these are convenient for seeing what colors you have available. •Drawer organizers – help you keep supplies separated and identifiable. •Household items – things you have around the house (for example, jars, plastic containers, etc.) can help you keep small items together.

These supplies don't need to be on or even next to your sewing table if you have open space for all of your daily sewing needs.

5.Create a Miscellaneous Area – This does not mean a "left over" area, rather this is for bigger items such as a full-length mirror, cutting board, iron and ironing board, garment steamer, and dressform. If you are tight on floor space, try hanging your mirror and ironing board on the wall. The cutting board can be tucked away in a closet or behind a desk or dresser. You may also want to find a spot to keep your gift wrapping supplies organized.

With these useful tips, organizing a sewing room can be time-saving event so you spend less time searching and more time sewing!

Copyright 2005 by Kathleen Elias - Editors are welcome to use this article for content as long as the article and author biography are reprinted in their entirety and an active weblink remains intact.

About the author: Kathleen Elias is the editor of www.Home-Organizing-Ideas.com, a website focused on organizing your home room by room. It offers original ideas, expert advice, and a monthly newsletter to help you reach your organizing goals. To contact the editor or find more information on organizing your home and life visit www.Home-Organizing-I deas.com.

Friday, August 15, 2008

Profitable Home Sewing Businesses

Author: Randy Wilson

If you're interested in home sewing businesses, you're onto a good thing. Home based sewing businesses have benefited from tremendous improvements in technology in the last few years.

The opportunities for home sewing businesses range from sewing specialty clothing to monogramming to commercial sewing. There are some absolutely fabulous machines and software out there that do everything from intricate embroidery to monogramming shirts, jackets, and caps for all sorts of businesses and sports teams.

So how do you go about starting a sewing business? First you have to decide on the type of home sewing business you want. As mentioned earlier, you can make specialty clothing such as wedding gowns and bridesmaids dresses on a machine you likely already own.

You may, however, want to break into the commercial area where you embroider on caps and such for local sports and Little League teams. Before you can have any home based sewing business, you have to know what exactly type of sewing service that business is going to provide.

The next thing you want to do when looking into sewing businesses is to look at the costs involved if you are going to be purchasing equipment. There's a wide range for you to choose from, and you can likely find exactly what you need at exactly the right price for your budget. Just make sure you deal with reputable companies. This is especially important if you're going to purchase used equipment for your home sewing business. Now develop a business plan for your sewing business. It should include a budget and how you'll use profits to grow your business in the future. You need to consider who the target market is for your home sewing business, and develop a plan for how you're going to reach it. Also, you'll want to look at accounting needs, tax requirements, and liability insurance.

You also want to decide whether you want to have a partner or not. Often, it's a good idea to have a partner, but make sure that person shares your vision of what you're doing. Also where you want to take your sewing business over time.

Once you have a business plan, follow it. It takes effort and determination to establish and sustain all businesses, whether they're home sewing businesses or Fortune 500 corporations. There will be bumps in the road, but your business plan will help you manage them when they pop up. Be vigilant, and you can be the owner of a successful home sewing business.

And, please, don't forget to consider your family when considering home sewing businesses. Talk about how having a home based sewing business will affect them. Make sure everyone understands what it will mean to them. You'll be home, but you'll be working.

This can make it hard for family members to know when you can stop and chat or go out for a bite to eat. Having everything out in the open will be a big help in the future when you're going crazy to meet a deadline and your family wants to go out for ice cream.

Once you've considered these aspects of home sewing businesses and have taken the plunge to actually start a home based sewing business, you want to get the word out. How much advertising you do depends on your budget, and you may not be able to do the type and amount you'd like when your first start your home sewing business.

Some simple, inexpensive advertising and marketing materials you should consider are flyers and business cards. You should also look into placing small ads in your local newspaper.

Websites are something else you should look into for advertising and marketing your home sewing business. They aren't nearly as expensive as you might think—and are well worth the investment for the amount of business one can bring your way.

© Copyright Randy Wilson, All Rights Reserved.

About the author: Randy is has dozens of home based business articles such as

Soy Candle Business Opportunity and

Spy Products .

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Get Your Sewing Organized.

Author: Cyd Klein

Raise you hand if you have a 'Sewing Room' all to yourself.

Wait a minute, hold on here, and let me count them-1-2-3-4. Well you get the picture; people with a dedicated sewing room are in the lucky minority. Most people have to borrow a corner of the Dining room table for their portable machine. Some use the floor as a cutout surface. What are you going to do?

You're going to get organized; because our Motto is: An organized Sewer is a happy sewer. See if you can use any of these ideas in your home.

Most pre-1960 sewing machine cabinets were built to hold a sewing machine and a few notions. Very few. Pull out the machine and stick the cabinet on the porch with a pot of marigolds.

Now that your machine is portable, place it on an old lowboy style dresser instead. There's lots of drawers for notions and fabric, and if your lucky enough to have a longer style you could gain some cutting space. You trade off the legroom, but hey you should be getting up and stretching your legs anyway.

If you have a corner, find an old Armoire at the thrift store. Doesn't have to be pretty, just big. Put a shelf in to hold your machine and drill a hole in the back for a cord. Add a shelf on top for fabric, and some racks for notions on the sides of the leg area, and you have your own sewing room. Hang a sign on it that says keep out (to keep your husband away from your scissors).

Don't have a sewing cabinet, can't get an Armoire on top of your Volkswagen? Not to worry. Get a free standing shelf from the Home Depot, one of those metal ones that bolt together and Voila' you have a sewing room (better hide your scissors though).

Ok, Ok, you live in an efficiency apartment and have no extra wall space. Umm, guess you will have to use the kitchen or dining room table after all. But that doesn't give you permission to be disorganized. So, find ways to keep all your sewing stuff in one place. Trudge back to that thrift store and look for an old picnic basket, you know the ones with the extra compartments. Your notions will be in one place and portable. Check around for one of those nifty plastic thingies that rolls under the bed. You could fit a lot of fabric and notions in there. " Who are you kidding; I know you've been hoarding fabric sister. "

As a last resort, store your clothes with your husbands in his closet. Make room by giving some of his stuff to the Thrift store. (they will appreciate that, even if he won't). Now that you have an empty closet put up some closet shelves, drill some holes, stack the fabric and .....hide the scissors. Copyright Reserved by Cyd Klein Enterprises

About the author: Cyd Klein has 21 years experience sewing for others. Her vocation is designing and manufacturing Costumes which are then marketed locally and on-line at http://www.nbr-1-costumes.com. Ms Klein also maintains a sewing help site at http://www.sew-help-me.com

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

The Emergence of Sewing Machines

Author: Alison Cole

Sewing machines are one of the great inventions credited with transforming the economies of global societies. In 1851 that Isaac Merritt Singer, after studying a poorly working example, spent $40 and 11 days to develop a practical sewing machine that used an up and down mechanism. The first Singer sewing machine was introduced for sale across the United States that same year and the company became the primary manufacturer and seller of sewing machines within two years.

Initially, sewing machines were manufactured for garment factory production lines. The industrial sewing machines are generally designed to perform a specific sewing function such as embroidery or sewing straight stitches. Machines with different functions are used to complete clothing items in a production line.

Marketing sewing machines to individuals didn't begin until 1889, allowing for women to have the means to create clothing for their family without the labor-intensive hand stitching. The domestic sewing machine used in the home is manufactured to perform many tasks from sewing straight or zigzag stitches and the creation of buttonholes, as well as stitching buttons on to the piece of clothing.

Sewing machines have been mass produced worldwide for more than two-hundred years. As a result, the wide variety of styles and manufacturers make antique sewing machines a favorite collectible. Some of the most favorite antique machines include working miniatures that were salesmen's samples that doubled as child's sewing machines specifically for use by young girls, since they were expected to learn how to sew.

All modern sewing machines run on electricity, while their predecessors were powered by a hand crank or a foot pedal operation known as a treadle. All sewing machines feature mechanical parts, however today a sewing machine that is not computerized, is referred to as a mechanical sewing machine. Electronic sewing machines sew faster and smoother while giving a better stitch. Computerized sewing machines are able to perform many standard functions for the home seamstress more efficiently and make embroidering a simple task. The price for basic, mechanical sewing machines for the home starts at $70; added features push prices up to $1,200. Computerized sewing machine pricing can start around $400 for the home machines, with top of the line models running as high as $5,000.

Most sewing machines are well built and will last for many years with only a few parts needing replacement. A great number of antique sewing machines are still in operation, but parts can be hard to find if the company is no longer in business. Typically, the manufacturer is the best location for sewing machine parts, but there are also many companies specializing in sewing machine part replacements.

For more than two centuries, innovators have been sewing themselves into the fabric of our world's economy by answering the creativity needs of the home seamstress and major designers. The human need for textiles and continued economic gain ensures that the sewing machine will continue to evolve.

About the author: Sewing Machines Info provides detailed information about industrial, embroidery, antique sewing machines, and sewing machines parts, as well as reviews of best sewing machine manufacturers. Sewing Machines Info is the sister site of Vending Machines Web .

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Sewing As A Part Time Income

Author: Mary Wilkins

Many of us have contemplated sewing for a source of part-time income. I, myself sold children's designs for a few years, along with doing repairs and alterations. I found it very satisfying, but hardly a dependable source of income.

Part of the reason for this I think, was the ever present threat of someone else doing the same work for less. Many women find it hard to charge a decent amount for their work. A lady in our community constructed an unlined jacket for someone for ten dollars. I was made to look like a very high priced villain. A simple alteration costs more than that.

If you are contemplating sewing for any sort of income, please check around to what others are charging. You may be selling yourself short. You may also be surprised to see the quality of the work involved. I have been surprised to see very shoddy workmanship with some while others work tirelessly for a few paltry dollars. Always make sure all your threads are neatly tucked under and secured. Perfect your buttonholes, collar points, even hemming can become an art. Make sure the inside of your garments are as well finished as the outside. I was told many years ago that this was the sign of a quality garment.

If you have doubts as to your ability to work with certain fabrics, buy remnants and experiment. Velvets and satins are tricky. Sewing for others during the holiday season or a special occasion (think wedding)can be a nightmare. It is better to turn the job down until you are more confident in your skills and have a good idea of how long it will take you to complete the job. Weddings can be a very emotional time for the bride, her mother and attendants. I sold fabrics to a bride who had absolutely no say in anything. Her mother was running that show. They tried to scrimp by with barely enough fabric to save money. The bride came back weeks later, practically in tears, needing more of the same fabric. She knew her chances were slim to none of me having any more of the fabric. As luck would have it, I did have more, but this is a prime example of how emotions can run high with this sort of a job. Then, they were not happy with the job the seamstress did on the bridesmaids dresses. What did they expect, full dresses, very fitted for twenty-five dollars each. As you can see, it was a fiasco from start to finish.

My point is, don't get caught in this sort of situation. If you can't fill their requirements, don't take the job on. Not all customers realize what they are doing when they ask for something to be done. They don't realize the time it takes, the work involved or the know how required to make a quality product on time. It is your job, as the seamstress, to explain this to the potential customer. Your quality of work is what will set you apart from all the others. The impression you leave with the customer, good or bad, stays with them. Always remember that.

I could go on and on about the pitfalls of sewing for others, this is just a reminder to not underestimate yourself or to let the customer talk you into something you are not sure of. Remember, you are in the drivers seat.

About the author: Mary Wilkins is the mother of three grown children and six perfect grandchildren. She is also the owner/editor of http://sew-whats-new.com

Monday, August 11, 2008

Taking Credit Cards at Craft Shows

Author: Natalie Goyette

If you are crafting for a living you are going to want to make as much money as possible. It's nice to be in it just for the love of the craft, but, if you are going to craft shows to sell your items, then chances are you are going to want to profit from your venture.

One of the best ways to boost your craft show sales is to offer credit as payment. Visa, American Express and MasterCard (and others) are becoming the transaction of choice when people are making snap decision on purchases. Plus, there are quite a few benefits for people using credit cards, like air miles and other reward programs, along with purchase protection.

Crafters have reported in various surveys that have credit card capability has increased their sales by as much as 35%. Accepting credit card payments is almost a necessity today as fewer people walk around with a lot of cash in their pockets and taking checks incurs greater risk. Taking credit cards allows you to expand your business to mail order, phone orders and the Internet as well as your craft show sales. Credit cards allow consumers to make more spontaneous purchases, which is often the case at craft shows.

Today, there are more options for those who have mobile businesses: they can have a wireless debit / credit card machines, the standard debit / credit card machines, and you always have the old style chargex machine with the carbon copy transaction. Any of them will work, however, with the electronic systems, you can set your business up to take any credit card. If you have the chargex carbon, then you may only be able to accept one of those cards.

Even though there are set up fees and monthly fees, the benefits far outweigh the costs. To get started, check your current bank or call a craft guild or association to check the many options, comparing costs and services for merchant accounts. Some warehouse companies like Costco, offer its members excellent credit card services at reasonable prices. Create a comparison chart of the best two or three offers and get some referrals from people who are using the services of the companies you're considering. Lastly, before making your decision, ensure there is an available contact person you can call when you have any problems or questions.

Credit cards are a great way for you to offer payment flexibility to your customers. There is less cash in the average consumer's pocket, and more plastic than ever before. So, if you want to sell more of your crafts, maybe you should think of offering a credit card payment option to your customers.

About the author: Natalie Goyette is the author of the best-selling book Craft Show Success. She shows you how you can make money selling your crafts! www.craftshowsuccess.com

Sunday, August 10, 2008

The Value Of A Vintage Sewing Machine

Author: Brian Channell

Sewing machines are not just for sewing! Thousands of people across the country are learning the value of a vintage sewing machine. What once functioned as a piece of machinery has now become a hot collector's item. Many individuals are now using vintage sewing machines as decorative accessories. They may be placed in a hallway, entryway, or a family room to showcase the beautiful craftsmanship of the vintage sewing machine.

If you are lucky enough to have a vintage sewing machine passed down from a family member, consider yourself very lucky. Not only is the sewing machine a beautiful piece of equipment, but it tells a story. Imagine all the baby blankets, outfits, and projects that were completed with your vintage sewing machine. Having a vintage sewing machine is a great way to connect with younger generations. Teaching them to sew on the very machine that their grandmother or great grandmother used is heart-warming.

If you are looking for a particular brand, don't worry. With patience and research you should have no trouble finding the brand you are looking for. Vintage Singer sewing machines are extremely popular with many collectors. Consult your local antique dealer to find out if they know of any vintage sewing machines for sale in the area.

EBay is a popular choice for many vintage sewing machine collectors. Finding the right vintage sewing machine on EBay is not that difficult. Make sure to utilize the communication features of the site to make sure that you get your questions answered. Ask about the quality and condition of the piece. The last thing you want is to bring it home and find a huge scratch or flaw in the piece. Don't forget to factor in shipping costs. Large machines can be expensive to ship, so plan accordingly.

No matter where you decide to purchase your vintage sewing machine, make sure to take good care of it once it is in your home. Consult with an antique dealer to find out the proper way to clean and maintain your sewing machine. That way you can pass it down to your loved ones for future generations to enjoy.

About the author: Brian Channell is an online entrepreneur. Please visit http://www.sewingmachines4sale.us/ to learn more.

Saturday, August 09, 2008

Finding A Brother Sewing Machine To Fit Your Needs

Author: Brian Channell

Brother sewing machines are one of the fastest growing trends in the sewing industry today. Millions have discovered all the things that their Brother sewing machine can do. With a little bit of creativity and determination, you should have no trouble finding the right equipment to begin your sewing career.

If you are in the market for a new Brother sewing machine, you are in luck. There are a wide variety of choices to meet everyone's preferences and budget. Prices range from $100 dollars up. You can purchase your machine through a Brothers sewing machine dealer or online through ebay.com or others. Where you decide to purchase your machine is up to you. So research the company and make sure that they will be there for you if you have questions after the sale.

If you already have a Brother sewing machine and are looking for parts and accessories, the best place to shop is with your initial dealer. If they are still available you are sure to find the exact parts needed for your machine. If you are unable to locate a certain part or accessory, try online. There is a wealth of sites set up that deal exclusively with Brother sewing machine parts.

For those that sew for a living, I would recommend the Brother industrial sewing machine series. These machines are specially designed to withstand the abuse of constant use. Most of these machines are major investments, so research your make and model thoroughly to ensure satisfaction.

No matter what you purpose and budget, you should have no trouble finding a Brother sewing machine to fit your needs. Remember to ask a lot of questions and find a dealer that will be there for you after the sale. If you have friends or family members that sew, ask them where they purchased their machines, which is the best way to find a good shop.

About the author: Brian Channell is an online entrepreneur. Please visit http://www.sewingmachines4sale.us/ to learn more.

Friday, August 08, 2008

How To Choose a Sewing Machine

Author: Mary Wilkins

You have finally come to the conclusion that you need or want a sewing machine. Now, what is on the market and how do you make the right decision?

There are many brands of machines out there and everyone boasts different features. Some machines appeal to quilters, others want you to embroider everything including the toilet seat and the shower curtain. Searching for the right machine is going to take some time.

Shopping for a new machine can make your head spin. The girls on my boards discuss which machine is best every time someone needs a new one. We all know the name brands but I am not going to suggest one, that decision is yours. It's a personal one and an important one. I will, however give you a few basic questions you should ask yourself.

1. What type of sewing do you plan to do? - clothing - crafts - repairs and alterations - home decorating

2. Where will you sew?

- sewing room - kitchen table - integrated into other family living area

3. How will your machine be stored? - in its own cabinet - in a closet hiding behind the coats - leave it out to sew every spare moment

4. Consider your budget and buying habits? How long will you keep this machine? - 6 months - a few years - forever and a day

When you answer these questions, you are on your way to making the right decision. Obviously if you are going to sew from the kitchen table, you don't want a machine with lots of accessories or add-ons that will take up too much room. If you are doing repairs and alterations, you don't want a machine that duplicates the quilting stitch. If you have small children around, your machine needs to be tucked away safely. Just a few things to think about.

Research is the name of the game here. Check out the latest consumer reports. Visit the forum discussions on sew-whats-new.com and see what the girls are using. They will gladly tell you what works and what doesn't. Another source is the well known sewing magazines. Sew News and Threads do comparison studies all the time.

If you are lucky enough to have local dealers, pay them all a visit. Test drive all their machines and ask lots and lots of questions. Take fabric with you that you use and test out things like stitch length, reverse and some of the different presser feet. Find out about lessons. Lots of dealers will give you a few free lessons to get you acquainted with your machine. Above all, take your time. I cannot stress this enough. Don't let anyone rush you thru the process. Leave the kids at home so you have no distractions. While you are in the shop asking questions, you can see how the staff relate to customers and if they have the answers to all your questions. If they seem impatient or brusque, imagine how they might be after the sale. If they are not helpful now at the prospect of a sale, they probably won't be later if you need help.

On the other hand, a strong sales pitch can also steer you in the wrong direction. Paying for a top of the line model doesn't mean you are getting the machine you will be happiest with. You must resist the urge for that impulse buy. Go home and talk to someone who sews. Find out their experiences and listen to what they have to say. Again, take your time with this decision.

If you have visited all the dealers, and test driven their machines visit them all again. Visit again when you are rested and can make a clear decision. Go back and take a second look at those machines. You are looking at them with new eyes now. Maybe there are a few things you never noticed the first time that stand out now. What about that foot pedal, is it comfortable? Do you want the even feed feature? Does the machine run smoothly and quietly? Are there more programmes than you will ever use? If so, make a mental note and you can scale down your possible choices. This second visit will tell you more than you expect.

Ask about the warranty that comes with each machine. Be sure you know who is responsible for standing behind it, your dealer or the manufacturer. Are repairs made locally or will you have to pack everything up and send it away.

Be very sure you understand what is included with the sewing machine. Which feet, how many bobbins and what about a manual. The manual is very important. You will refer to the manual time after time so it should be a good reference guide to all the accessories and stitch designs along with any other functions. The manual should be full of pictures and diagrams for the basic sewing as well as clear directions. If your manual isn't helpful, do you want to go searching out the answers every time you have a problem. I wish I had a penny for every time someone has emailed me with a problem that their manual doesn't answer.

Be sure you get your sales agreement in writing and keep your copy in a safe place. Nothing less will do.

The bottom line is you must do some work before you ever sew your first stitch. If you make the effort and educate yourself, the rewards of a great sewing machine are yours.

About the author: Mary is the mother to three grown children and six perfect grandchildren. She is also owner/editor of http://sew-whats-new.com Her site has been recognized in many national sewing magazines.

Thursday, August 07, 2008

Preparing Your New Sewing Machine to Sew

Author: Mary Wilkins

A few weeks ago I wrote a column on how to choose your sewing machine. If you have made your choice, we will continue on with getting your machine ready to sew.

Threading the machine is something that is pretty basic, yet a little different on every machine. It is VERY important to refer to your manual when first learning the procedure. If the threading isn't correct, nothing else will work either.

Here is a basic rundown of threading a sewing machine. Remember, each machine is different. This is just the general idea.

1. Put your spool of thread on the spindle on top of the machine.

1a. A vertical spindle or post - position the spool so that the thread runs clockwise as you sew.

1b. A horizontal spindle - the spool is held in place by an end cap. If your spool has a small cut in it, be sure to have the cut to the right.

NEWBIE TIP: If your spool is brand new and there are labels covering the holes, uncover yhour holes completely to allow the spool to turn easily.

2. Pull thread to the left of the spindle and thru your first thread guide.

3. Draw thread down thru your tension guide. (It is extremely important to have your presser foot UP when threading your machine.)

4. Draw thread thru the next thread guide.

5. Insert thread thru the take up lever.

6. Bring thread thru next thread guide.

7. Finally! - thread your needle. Most needles are threaded from front to back, some from left to right.

Practise threading your machine. It is no small chore if you are a beginner, but after a while you will be able to do this with your eyes closed.

WINDING YOUR BOBBIN - THE NEXT STEP

Follow the instructions from your manual carefully when winding your bobbin.

If your bobbin case is built in, the bobbin will be wound in place with the machine fully threaded.

Removable bobbins are wound on the top or side of the machine. Your machine must be threaded before bobbin filling.

Your bobbin thread must be drawn thru the tension spring. For wind in place bobbins, this is already taken care of. You MUST make sure this is done if you are using a bobbin that already has thread in it.

BALANCING THE TENSION:

Balancing your tension is a huge issue when you first start to learn about your sewing machine. There is nothing that will cause you more grief than your tension.

Your stitch is formed by interlocking the bobbin and needle thread. Every time the needle goes down, a hook catches the needle thread and wraps the bobbin thread around it. It is a tug of war that must be synchronized for a good stitch result.

If your needle thread tension is stronger, your bobbin thread will be pulled to the top of your fabric. If your bobbin thread tension is stronger, the needle thread will be visible on the underside of your fabric. When the tension is just right and evenly balanced, the stitch will lock in the middle, halfway between the top and bottom of your fabric. This is what you want and have to find. It might take some playing around with your tension guide, but worth the extra bit of time it takes.

TEST - TEST- TEST

The easiest way to test your tension is to thread your machine and put one colour thread in your machine with a totally different colour in your bobbin. Neither one should match your fabric. You need to examine your stitches.

If your tension is too tight, you will see your bobbin thread on top.

If your tension is too loose, you will see your top thread on the bottom of the fabric.

If your tension is correct, you will see machine thread only on the top of the fabric and bobbin thread only on the underside of the fabric.

MAKING ADJUSTMENTS:

BEFORE you start adjusting your tension, make these three checks. This is very important.

1. Be certain your machine is threaded properly. Even long time sew-ers can miss a thread guide.

2. Be sure your bobbin is properly installed.

3. Make sure your needle is inserted properly.

After going thru the three checks, you may have to adjust the tension in order to sew a good stitch. Check your manual to see how this is done. Each time you have adjusted, sew a line of stitching. You should only have to make small, slight adjustments to correct your stitch.

If after what seems like an eternity of changes, you still don't have a balanced stitch, leave your machine. Don't even look at it for a few hours, maybe a day or so. Then go back and try again. It could be you are tired, frustrated or distracted. It happens to all of us.

Or, it could be that your bobbin needs adjusting. Most sewing machine manufacturers don't want you to adjust your bobbin tension. If your manual doesn't cover this area, then it is best to take your sewing machine in to a dealer or reputable repair man.

Happy Sewing!

About the author: Mary is the mother of three grown children and grandmother to six perfect grandchildren. She is also owner/editor of http://sew-whats-new.

Wednesday, August 06, 2008

Sewing with Polar Fleece

Author: Cyd Klein

Polar Fleeces are some of the easiest fabrics to sew with. They are soft and warm so they work great for outdoor wear and especially winter parade or pageant wear. Here are some examples of Parade Costumes made using fleece.

First, Don't get fleeced. You put a lot of work into your sewing, make sure it lasts and buy the non-pill variety.

The non-pill finish is very important because it prevents the surface of your fabric from balling up or pilling after several washings. The less expensive fleeces without this finish are not worth sewing, because they start to look old quickly, leaving you feeling that you've wasted your money and sewing time. Pay up front, or pay later Grandma Loretta used to say.

Any fabric store should be able to tell you whether a piece of fabric has a non-pill finish. This finish is applied only to the right side of the fabric. That's important to remember because;

FLEECE HAS A RIGHT SIDE AND A WRONG SIDE.

On prints the right side is usually clearer or the colors are more vivid than the wrong side. On solids, the right side is smoother than the wrong side which looks more like felt. If your not sure, ask the fabric store personnel before you purchase it. If you have some already in your stash and are not sure which is the right side, wash the fabric a couple of times. The side that looks the best is the right side.

When sewing with fleece, you have a variety of weights to choose from.

Micro fleeces are lightweight fabrics, almost like chamois. They're perfect for shirts, leggings, housecoats, lightweight jacket linings, and scarves.

100-weight fleeces can be one- or two-sided, which means they're fuzzy on either one or two sides. Slightly heavier than the micro fleeces, these fabrics are about the same weight as sweat shirting. The 100-weight fleeces are great for high-tech sweatshirts and leggings, jacket linings, and lightweight gear for heads, feet, and hands.

Medium-weight fleeces are probably the most common and versatile on the market. They're perfect for jackets, pants, hats, mittens, socks, slippers, and vests, and there is a lot of medium weight fleece available.

Stretch Fleeces are great for leggings or comfy long johns under your snowmobile suit. They are also great for socks, mittens, gloves, and hats.

I recommend a size 14 universal or sharp needle on your project. Keep the presser foot fairly tight , somewhere between 4-5. Try it on same scraps first, looking for the adjustment that allows the fleece to feed through evenly.

Tips

Whether serging or sewing, have the bottom piece extend beyond the upper piece by 1/8 of inch. That way you can see it while you are sewing to make sure both layers are being caught in the stitch.

Take Caution when ironing, use a cool iron and a press cloth. Lucky for the sewer, fleece does not need much ironing.

Once I know which side is which put a big chalk X on the wrong side of each piece when I cut out the pattern.

Cyd Klein, Sew Help Me.com

About the author: Cyd Klein has 21 years experience sewing for others. Her vocation is designing and manufacturing Costumes which are then marketed locally and on-line at http://www.nbr-1-costumes.com. Ms Klein also maintains a sewing help site at http://www.sew-help-me.com

Tuesday, August 05, 2008

Sewing Machines: Making A Comeback?

Author: Kathryn Whittaker

While we don't have to rely on sewing machines to satisfy our basic clothing needs, more and more people today turn to sewing to create unique, luxurious, one-of-a-kind pieces. Every family has that hand embroidered grandmother's table cloth or a hand-made quilt, and these pieces are as cherished as the most sophisticated haute couture creations. And instead of paying hefty sums to someone for creating these little pieces of luxury for you, you can develop the easy skills of making your own monograms, embroideries or even hand-sewn button-holes - all the little luxuries that make the difference.

With the help of a reliable sewing machine, you can instantly personalize a lot of everyday necessities. For example, you can create a set of unique napkins or add a classy touch to your bed linen and bath towels with a monogram. And with a little practice you can even alter and mend your clothes.

When choosing your first sewing machine, make sure you understand how much sewing you plan to do. The honest answer will save you money and time, as you will not pick a too complex and upscale sewing machine for your basic sewing needs.

If you plan to study sewing and even recreate expensive designer clothes to save money, you will need a more upscale sewing machine. Sewing your own clothes makes sense only if your sewing skills are high enough to recreate high-end clothes, such as suits, jackets and dresses. You won't save money on sewing your own jeans, because the pattern, fabric, buttons, and the time spent will make this pair of jeans more expensive than any of the designer creations. However, sewing children's clothes does make sense, because you need little fabric, and you don't really need complicated patterns.

A sewing machine is a great investment for those who have a passion for clothes design and like to wear one-of-a-kind pieces and don't want to limit their clothing choices to what they see in department stores. With a sewing machine and a little patience you have full control on where the pockets go, what kind of buttons you use, and where the hemline stops. You should be aware that creating clothes from scratch or even amending the existing pattern requires sewing skills and a lot of time and devotion.

A more practical use for sewing machines is mending and altering the clothes you already have. We all have that special pair of trousers or jeans that we love and hate to throw them out. Sewing machines also work great for those who like personalizing item with monograms and embroideries.

Sewing for your home is quite labor-consuming; drapes and upholstery require lots of fabric and professional-grade equipment for precise sewing notions, such as rivets and hooks. Still, you can create simple drapes and even roman blinds on your basic sewing machine. Don't forget about quilting that once fuelled the sewing machine craze. It seems like patchwork is coming back, and many fashion designers even use elements in their collections.

Sewing machines are indispensable for crafts, which are a great way to relax and unwind after a busy day. Studies have shown that sewing reduces stress! When sewing something, no matter for what purposes, people achieve something that gives them a lasting satisfaction and a sense of accomplishment. Besides, hand-made simple purses, gift bags for wine bottles, tablecloths and napkins make wonderful and thoughtful gifts.

And who knows, maybe after you discover the joys of sewing, you will decide to move forward and open a small sewing business to create and sew unique pieces of clothing. Many upscale boutiques and fashion fairs feature such mini-collections often sewn on simple household sewing machines.

About the author: Kathryn Whittaker writes articles on a number of different topics. For more information on Sewing Machines please visit http://www.sewing-machine-guide.com/ and for additional Sewing related articles please visit http://www.sewing-machine-guide.com/sewingmachine-articles/

Monday, August 04, 2008

A Brief History of Sewing Machines

Author: Alison Cole

Initially, sewing machines were manufactured for garment factory production lines, allowing for clothing to become uniformly mass-produced. It was French tailor Barthelemy Thimonnier who invented the first functioning sewing machine in 1830 for use in his garment factory.

This original machine used only one thread and a hooked needle for a chain stitch. His factory was burnt down and he was nearly killed by an angry mob of French tailors who were afraid his machines would leave them unemployed. A few years later in America, Walter Hunt shared the same fears, and abandoned the work to patent his own version of a straight-seam sewing machine. The fears were unfounded, as industrial sewing machines created multiple job opportunities worldwide.

Modern garment factories incorporate the same mass production techniques as other industries, with each workstation completing one part of the overall job. Industrial sewing machines are generally designed to perform one specific sewing function such as embroidery. Machines with different functions are operated to complete clothing items in a production line. Marketing to individuals didn't begin until 1889, allowing for women to have the means to create clothing for their family without the labor-intensive hand stitching. The domestic sewing machine used in the home is manufactured to perform many tasks from sewing straight or zigzag stitches and the creation of buttonholes, as well as stitching buttons on to the piece of clothing.

Industrial sewing machines, like their domestic counterparts for the home, were created to simplify and speed up the otherwise labor-intensive hand stitching. The domestic sewing machine is manufactured to perform many tasks from sewing straight or zigzag stitches and the creation of buttonholes, as well as stitching buttons on to the piece of clothing. Sewing machines were adapted for use in industrial settings, allowing for clothing to become uniformly mass-produced. The industrial sewing machines are generally designed to perform a specific sewing function such as embroidery or applying buttonholes. Companies from all over the world manufacture industrial sewing machines with very basic features as well as higher-end computer operated models.

A variety of machines with different functions are operated to complete clothing items in a production line. A few examples would be a Bag Closer sewing machine which is used for sewing a single thread chain-stitch, a high-speed plain sewer is used for stitching seems and double needle machines are used for adding top stitching details to items like jeans.

Walking foot machines are invaluable for quilting and sewing coats, as it keeps the fabric moving along without bunching and making for a smoother and faster production. Overlock serger sewing machines, which are also available in smaller versions for the home, create the whipped V stitch along the edge of a seam of T-shirts and other stretchable fabrics.

About the author: Sewing Machines Info provides detailed information about industrial, embroidery, antique sewing machines, and sewing machines parts, as well as reviews of best sewing machine manufacturers. Sewing Machines Info is the sister site of Vending Machines Web .

Sunday, August 03, 2008

Sewing - A Wonderful Pastime

Author: David Chandler

To think that in the beginning the only sewing patterns used were to measure from ankle to dirt and chop off the animal skin so that it would not drag on the ground. Now you can get sewing patterns for everything from a simple square sewn together to create a throw pillow to an elaborate wedding dress. You can find sewing patterns by the thousands at any fabric or specialty store, and find specialized catalogues, which cater to custom sewing patterns for any size and style. You can now also buy sewing patterns online from all the classic pattern manufacturers, and the technology of the internet allows formerly unknown pattern manufacturers a chance for the spotlight.

Sewing patterns are simply sheets of tissue paper, which are marked with the dimensions needed in order to produce the garment pictured on the front of the package. When laying sewing patterns on the fabric be sure to avoid laying them on the wrong size or against the wrong part of the grain. It is advisable to take a sewing class before you tackle a pattern, which can be daunting to the novice seamstress.

Sewing can be a wonderful pastime. Sewing patterns for clothes, plush toys, home décor, etc. are endless. Stop in any fabric store and look at the array of fabrics to compliment your home décor or your fashion statement. Many fabric shops offer free or low cost sewing lessons. If you need a wonderful hobby, then sewing could be your answer.

For more information, visit

www.SewingInfoCenter.com

About the author: None